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The most important component in any netting project is the material. Why is it so difficult to compare? Go to one site, and you’ll find 96 netting. At another, you’ll find a 1500 series. So, how do you compare #96 to the 1500 series? It’s tough. Most net manufacturers don’t want you to compare directly, so they code the net twine size. One company, in particular, sells a #36 and calls it a #96!

As a general rule, netting comes in twine sizes. The smaller the number, the thinner the twine. A #24 is about twice as thick and twice as strong as a #12 twine. A #36 twine is about twice as thick and strong as a #18.

That’s all there is to it. The problem is, how do you know the twine size? Many companies simply advertise the twine making it easy. Other companies code their product, so you don’t know unless you ask (a few won’t tell you even if you do ask).

Example: One company sells a 1500 series net. You might think they mean #15 twine size, right? Wrong. Their 1500 series is a #12. Their 2100 series is a #18, and their #96 is a #36. Their numbering system is close enough to the popular twine sizes that people naturally assume a direct correlation. This is deceptive.

Another company does it a little differently, and a lot more honestly. Their N36 netting should be a #36 twine right? Well, it is and their N30 is a #30 twine. The bottom line is this, just because you see a model number that is close to a twine size, don’t assume it is the twine size.

As a general rule, netting comes in twine sizes. The smaller the number, the thinner the twine. A #24 is about twice as thick, and twice as strong as a #12 twine. A #36 twine is about twice as thick and strong as a #18.

That's really all there is to it. The problem is, how do you know the twine size? Many companies simply advertise the twine making it easy. Other companies code their product, so you don't know unless you ask (a few won't tell you even if you do ask).

Example: One company sells a 1500 series net. You might think they mean #15 twine size, right? Wrong. Their 1500 series is a #12. Their 2100 series is a #18, and their 96 is a #36. Their own numbering system is close enough to the popular twine sizes that people naturally assume a direct correlation. This is deceptive.

Another company does it a little differently, and a lot more honestly. Their N36 netting should be a #36 twine right? Well, it is and their N30 is a #30 twine. The bottom line is this, just because you see a model number that is close to a twine size, don't assume it is the twine size.

Our lead times vary depending on the project size and material availability. Call or email us to get an estimated lead time.

You can contact us through our contact page! We will be happy to assist you.

At CNW we make products using urethane treated nylon and polyethylene (HDPE). Our HDPE material is strong and lightweight, does not absorb water, resists breakdown in direct sunlight, and employs an integral UV inhibitor. This means the UV inhibitor is one component inside the polymeric blend that gets extruded into individual fibers. Those fibers are then twisted or braided into twine. Since the UV inhibitor is built in, the UV inhibitor doesn't wear off, as it can with nylon. Since HDPE doesn't absorb water as nylon can, it resists rotting better than nylon or other materials.

HDPE

HDPE is less expensive than nylon. One of the main differences is that polyethylene doesn't have the break strength of Nylon. For outdoor use, the performance is nearly on par with nylon. These nets may provide the best value for quality and price concerns.

Nylon

If you have an indoor project and durability and break strength are prioritized over budget, nylon netting is right for you. Nylon has the strongest break strength and is by far the most durable netting for indoor use. Nylon has excellent resistance to abrasion and outstanding overall durability.

Because nylon netting can absorb water, many manufacturers treat the nylon with a bonding agent by dipping or spraying the twine. Although treating nylon with a bonding agent will dramatically reduce nylon's tendency to soak up water, it doesn't stop it entirely. Nylon will eventually shrink and rot.

When compared with polyethylene netting, nylon is initially stronger but deteriorates faster. Depending on conditions, nylon loses between 15% and 20% of its strength yearly. For year one, a #36 nylon will have a greater break strength than a #36 polyethylene, but depending upon weather conditions, polyethylene may be as strong or stronger by the end of the third year.

Although nylon netting has a high initial break strength, if left outside, that strength can deteriorate rapidly. Nylon absorbs water and loses strength in direct sunlight. For indoor applications, nylon is an excellent choice. If your netting is exposed to adverse weather, consider polyethylene or HDPE.

Polyethylene

Polyethylene netting is inexpensive and does not deteriorate as quickly due to moisture. As the netting is exposed to moisture, polyethylene retains a higher percentage of its strength than nylon. Polyethylene does not absorb water, so the problem of rotting and shrinkage disappears.

Polyethylene netting has drawbacks as well. Most blends of polyethylene don't hold up well to direct sunlight. Not all polyethylene nets incorporate UV inhibitors. This works well for indoor applications, but it may not be practical over extended periods of outdoor use, especially in warmer climates. Our polyethylene nets incorporate a UV inhibitor. A UV inhibitor is one component inside the polymeric blend that gets extruded into individual fibers. Those fibers are then twisted or braided into twine. Since the UV inhibitor is built in, it doesn't wear off, as it can with other netting.

Square Mesh is Better. Diamond Mesh is Cheaper.

Due to how netting is produced, hanging a net on the diamond reduces the amount of waste netting, so hanging a net on the diamond is typically less expensive. Hanging a net on the diamond causes a few problems. First, the net won’t hang as straight. The net pattern causes the batting cage to pull in from the sides. On top of that, batting cages with a diamond mesh will usually have poorer seams, because the rope border has to be sewn diagonally across the meshes, leaving an irregular net border to sew to. Square mesh is typically more expensive to produce because the ends must be trimmed off. Although hanging a net on the square can take more material, the finished product is significantly better. A cage hung on the square will open straighter, and all four bottom edges will be more likely to reach the ground. The edges will be neater, and the border will naturally follow the edge of the netting.

This is a controversial issue in our industry. The truth is, it depends on the crossover stitch. A knotless net with a great crossover stitch will typically outlast a knotted net. A knotted net will typically outlast a knotless net with a weak crossover stitch.

A net’s break strength is determined by calculating how much tension may be placed on a strand before that strand breaks.

#12 nylon net will have a break strength of about 116 pounds. A rolled-up sheet of newspaper will have a break strength of about 240 pounds. Yet, the #12 Nylon net will last much longer. Why? The newspaper will quickly disintegrate in the sun and the rain, so nobody makes batting cages out of paper! This example is intentionally extreme, but what does this mean? You can’t assume that a net with a higher “initial” break strength will last longer than a product with a lower break strength.

Similarly, some batting cage materials absorb water (nylon, for instance), and some don’t. Some materials resist the adverse effects of direct sunlight better than others; some break down very quickly in direct sunlight. If all netting were made out of the same material, break strength would be an essential factor in determining how long a net would last, but it's not. A net’s initial break strength isn’t always related to its functional break strength. For example, a batting cage will fail if its breaking strength drops below about 60 lbs. If a batting cage starts at 500 lbs. and drops below 60 lbs. in two years, the cage will last 2 years. If a cage starts at 200 lbs. and drops below 60 lbs. seven years later, that cage will last seven years.

In the case of batting cage durability, it is important to consider:

• resistance to weather conditions
• size/weight of netting material
• resistance to abrasion
• initial break strength vs. long-term break strength
• relative deterioration
• construction methods and quality

Yes, we do! If you have an idea you’d like to discuss, call us at (800) 459-2147, or email info@cnwnetting.com to request a quote.

CNW's manufacturing facility is qualified to manufacture and produce systems for indoor and outdoor installations. Our experience ranges from high-end backyard installations to multi-stall indoor batting practice facilities and institutional systems for universities, schools, and the armed forces. We are qualified to manufacture and produce systems for indoors or outdoors. Whether you are looking for a 10-cage indoor system or a single cage in your backyard, consider CNW.

We manufacture and install

• Batting & golf cages
• Outdoor practice facilities
• Gymnasium conversions
• Custom stadium wall pads
• Netting systems for behind the home plate
• Netting systems for foul territory